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DÉVASTÉE AW14-15

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Monochrome, and achingly cool, Devastee is what parisian hipster dreams are made of. Sweet but no overly so, with all of the right sixties references, but most of all urban with contempoaray street style references evident. 

Orlebar Brown @ LCM AW14-15

Images by JEJ for FACADES

The jungle theme, form Orlebar Brown, was almost a spectacle in itself as the models in the O.B. presentation looked out at the members of the press from a sea of tropical foliage. Some classic cotton tees with bold tropical designs are easily the most recognisable aesthetic trending across the O.B. Sping/Summer ’14 range. It must be said, this style, and these garments, are not short of character. T-shirts which start at the shoulders and neck line in plain white and then evolve down into scenes of flamingos in water just speaks volumes from themselves – and most likely the equally bold chap who dons these items for summer jaunts in ’14. Orlebar Brown is often easy to spot due to the side adjusters on the swimming trunks and pool-side shorts, however, it is apparent that it is the jungle theme which will mark O.B. summer garments going forwards.

Sir Hardy Amies @ LCM AW14-15

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

As you would expect, some beautifully constructed English classics, spiced up with some very fetching footwear and luggage, were the order of the day for Hardy Aimes. Straight off the bat, one of the most notable elements was indeed in the footwear, the variation used to compliment the rest of the styling was extremely impressive. Soft, grey suede tasselled driving loafers with navy ink flannel trousers, bold brogues with the strong lines of cream-coloured Macs…the list is endless. The overall impression from H.A.’s Spring/Summer ’14 collection is of crisp English refinement, but with the sharp silhouette so sought after by contemporary City slicker. A grey, double-breasted, flannel suit, with black double-monk strap shoes, which was particularly outstanding, will surely appeal to a man with his head in his work wardrobe (as opposed to ‘the clouds’).

M&S @ LCM AW14-15

images shot by JEJfor FACADES

M&S does a very respectable job of staying on-trend, by slimming the silhouettes of its formalwear, adding a scattering of peak lapels, and using some faux-fur collars. All credit has to be paid for their attention to detail, as suit jacket pockets are slanted, and ticket pockets are added to create convincingly higher-end look.

CP Company @ LCM AW14-15

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

CP Company gambles, in a big way, on the outcome of building in shaded goggles into the hoods of their jackets and coats. Given that this is a look that’s very prominent across the new range, there is no margin for error if this addition does not receive press, or general public consensus approval. It gives the new pieces a strangely extra-terrestrial look, and feels a little incongruous, given that the body of the jackets they are affixed to has a more classic ‘Belstaff-esque’, waxed look. Still, you can’t fault their sense of adventure.

Daks @ Milano Moda Uomo AW14-15

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Thomas Pink @ LCM AW14-15

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

Thomas Pink employed good use of theatricalities, as the models for their presentation were hanging from scaffolding, bathed in pink lighting. Thomas Pink has not really held up its end of the bargain since its acquisition by LVMH in ’99, so such loud efforts to spice up new releases are understandable. The brand stays within its established stomping grounds by pushing out more velvet, peak-lapelled smoking jackets and checked shirts. A more interesting item was the addition of a sky blue pea-coat which will probably find that it goes toe-to-toe with Polo Ralph Lauren and Hackett, in terms of target market.

Kay Kwok @ LCM AW14-15

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Given how brutally futuristic Kay Kwok’s Autumn Winter 2014 range is, it could go so wrong – but it, in fact, went so right. It is effortlessly cool in its strong, confident assertion – merging subtle oriental themes with a futuristic statement. Kwok’s show starts how it means to finish on the runway. One particular look really stands out for it’s brazen audacity, a rice-paddy-meets-robo-cop hat, complete with black shaded visor, high white roll neck, and long flowing t-shirt and skirt which is unashamedly emblazoned with a large alien print.

Philipp Plein @ Milano Moda Uomo AW14-15

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

The event named, ‘Noir Cowboy’ gave a very strong suggestion of what to expect from the German designer who is becoming so well known for his theatrical and dramatic shows. It would be reasonable to expect some leather, and even more cowboy hats – and this expectation was adhered to in abundance. The new P.P. range reeked of bold, visceral, wild-west inspired masculine looks – pairing alligator leather jackets and black leather trousers created about as much attitude as it’s possible to pack into 15 minutes of runway action. P.P. created a memorable range which was displayed at it’s very best when accompanied by pounding techo. Broad fitting black leather coats with shearling collars just added to the west-inspired-meets-urban visual impact.

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