images shot by JEJ for FACADES 

The new Louis Leeman collection seems to cover every single trend happening at the moment, it’s safe to say that the variety of the range is vast, and in it’s sheer comprehensive size, very impressive. Leeman seems to hone in on all the little elements which create the buzz behind other shoe designers, and use them in her own range to create a thorough reflection of what is ‘happening’ in men’s footwear this year. There is the Jimmy Choo over-sized tassle, the Alberto Moretti sparkly slipper-shaped loafer, the Zanotti metallic straps, the list is endless. Thus, as a statement of originality it’s perhaps not that impressive. However, as a snap shot of the sharpest elements of 2013’s best selling men’s footwear, it’s commendable.

images shot by JEJfor FACADES

M&S does a very respectable job of staying on-trend, by slimming the silhouettes of its formalwear, adding a scattering of peak lapels, and using some faux-fur collars. All credit has to be paid for their attention to detail, as suit jacket pockets are slanted, and ticket pockets are added to create convincingly higher-end look.

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

CP Company gambles, in a big way, on the outcome of building in shaded goggles into the hoods of their jackets and coats. Given that this is a look that’s very prominent across the new range, there is no margin for error if this addition does not receive press, or general public consensus approval. It gives the new pieces a strangely extra-terrestrial look, and feels a little incongruous, given that the body of the jackets they are affixed to has a more classic ‘Belstaff-esque’, waxed look. Still, you can’t fault their sense of adventure.

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

CP Company gambles, in a big way, on the outcome of building in shaded goggles into the hoods of their jackets and coats. Given that this is a look that’s very prominent across the new range, there is no margin for error if this addition does not receive press, or general public consensus approval. It gives the new pieces a strangely extra-terrestrial look, and feels a little incongruous, given that the body of the jackets they are affixed to has a more classic ‘Belstaff-esque’, waxed look. Still, you can’t fault their sense of adventure.

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

Thomas Pink employed good use of theatricalities, as the models for their presentation were hanging from scaffolding, bathed in pink lighting. Thomas Pink has not really held up its end of the bargain since its acquisition by LVMH in ’99, so such loud efforts to spice up new releases are understandable. The brand stays within its established stomping grounds by pushing out more velvet, peak-lapelled smoking jackets and checked shirts. A more interesting item was the addition of a sky blue pea-coat which will probably find that it goes toe-to-toe with Polo Ralph Lauren and Hackett, in terms of target market.

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

It’s a mistake to think Crombie would only produce boxy, unchanging classics following a template which was ‘good in the 50’s, why change it now’. The Crombie presentation showed the depth of imagination behind this label with some beautifully masculine and impressive garments being proudly shown. A black leather, double breasted coat complete with sheepskin collar, a cropped navy pea-coat with rabbit fur shawl collar…these items are not what I would associate with this classic, staple diet label – but hats off to them, I am deeply impressed. The garments reek of confident, sophistication and excellent construction. Some military lapels and clean silhouettes on the leather overcoats give the new range an Armani meets Belstaff kind of sex-appeal which has perhaps been lacking in the past from this company.

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

This Savile Row royal name delivered the kind of elegant, English sophistication that is nothing short of what I had expected. The presentation was a little light on garments, but everything that was displayed upheld Barrie’s sublime reputation in men’s formalwear. The stand out piece was a slate grey, wool, two-piece suit with horizontal pin stripes. This might sound, in print, like an abomination…but it just looked bold and confident – especially with it’s broad, peaked lapels, and when coupled with a crisp button down collar (injecting a touch of Ivy League sleekness).

images shot by JEJ for FACADES

Admittedly, the only item to my taste by Farhi in the Autumn/Winter Collection is a beautiful contrast sleeve leather bomber jacket which has already been done by APC, but there are plenty of other items in there to interest someone whose tastes stray away from the accepted classics. Most notably there are some interesting dabbles in the chunky knitwear arena, including one particularly striking thick-knit, crew neck that follows a patch-work design and uses 1970’s textured, tan and taupe colours.