filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Checks, whether the smaller Prince of Wales varietal, or the bigger, bolder window pane type dominate across RJ’s new Savile Row range. There’s a more Italian feel to these new releases as jackets appear to finish shorter, and a are slimmer through the sleeve and leg. A couple of pleasant surprises lurk in amongst the predictable, such as the use of the Texan tie (think, sartorial Colonel Sanders) and some beautiful olive green in ties and dinner 

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Somewhere between Aztec and London graffiti artist wrapped up in futuristic packaging, is perhaps the best I can come up with to articulately describe the A/W ’14 KTZ offering. Lots of mixed fabrics and textures are employed in metallic and monochrome colours to give it a very foreword-looking and diverse image. The models were even adorned with metallic face-paints on the runway to give the new range an even more ‘out there’, ethereal aesthetic.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

The ‘paint flecked’ look, which adorned Hackett trousers last season seems to have been re-cycled by Hunter Gatherer. However, this trendy brand pushes the boat out just a little further by pulling that design into an all-in-one…with white brogues. H.G. also employs the asymmetrical use of zips over their jumpers, and then brings it back to the main stream by pairing this sweater with a classic blue blazer and pocket handkerchief. A bit of an eclectic collection, but will certainly have individual items which have decent, main-stream, commercial appeal.

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

Varvatos demonstrably took a lot of inspiration from rock n’ roll living legends, KISS, for his new range which hit the ruway in Milan on the first day. Items which immediately stood out were a gold python bomber jacket, and use of the Dickensian wing-tip collar. All of these nods to a gothic London aesthetic gave the whole show a very dark, ominous, yet deeply memorable, sense. The monochromatic, and fairly demonic, face-paints which are so well known to KISS fans were also used in abundance – and on occasion, mirrored in the low cut v-neck t-shirts. Needless to say, the appearance of aforementioned living legends at the Varvatos after-party, for some classic tongue popping poses was just the icing on the cake. 

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

John Richmond’s new range had a hard, masculine elegance which is such a hard balance to strike. The vast majority of the collection were monochromatic, with occasional dashes of red and two entirely red outfits. The range seems to sit somewhere between dark, futurism and east London attitude. Some strong, aggressive angles across the lapels and detailing of the new Richmond coats, combined with short-studded footwear really did set the testosterone fuelled tone for this new collection. The use of monochrome camo trousers with lightly detailed leather, high collared jackets does just re-enforce the strong attitude which rolled down the runway for 15 minutes of pure, Richmond gold. 

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

filmed by JEJ for FACADES

I couldn’t help but be reminded of surreal golfing attire at the Moncler show in a trendy warehouse in Milan. The brand employed the use of argyle-sock-esque diamond patterns across the huge majority of their items. The three-quarter length plus four trousers also contributed to this aesthetic. The runway was processed a very steady pace, which added to the slightly dream-like feeling of the show – unfortunately more variety across the new releases would not have gone amiss as the diamond patterning, so religiously used across the range, meant that many of the items had a ‘camouflage effect’ and would blend into each other. Moncler’s strong colour scheme was never missed as all the footwear was proudly embossed with the very recognisable red, white and blue which is now so associated with the brand.